James Cook named this headland on 10 June 1770, hours after the Endeavour struck a reef offshore and his survey turned into a salvage operation. The word he chose was tribulation, and it stuck. Two hundred and fifty-six years later the same coast carries a different kind of traffic: Cape Tribulation day tour from Cairns tours run daily up the last sealed road in tropical North Queensland, roughly 140 kilometres of bitumen that ends where the Bloomfield Track begins. What sits at the end of it is a geographic accident. Here the Wet Tropics of Queensland World Heritage Area meets the Great Barrier Reef World Heritage Area — two separate listings sharing one line of sand, a meeting found nowhere else. The forest is older than the argument about it. Botanists trace the Daintree's lineage to Gondwanan vegetation of some 180 million years, and the lowland section behind Cape Tribulation holds twelve of the world's nineteen primitive flowering plant families. Idiospermum australiense, the idiot fruit, was recorded in 1902, presumed extinct, then rediscovered in 1971 after cattle died from eating its seeds near Noah Creek. Licuala fan palms stand in dense groves, their leaves nearly circular. The southern cassowary, flightless and close to 1.8 metres tall, carries and drops the seeds of more than 200 plant species. Remove the bird and the forest slowly stops reproducing itself. Human occupation runs longer than the botany suggests. The Eastern Kuku Yalanji hold country between the Mossman and Bloomfield rivers and call the cape Kulki; their seasonal calendar, their fire practice and their plant knowledge now sit inside formal park management agreements. In 1983 bulldozers cut the Bloomfield Track through this forest and met the first large environmental blockade in Queensland's history, with people buried to the neck in the road cutting. The images travelled. Five years later the Wet Tropics gained World Heritage inscription, in 1988, against the objections of the state government of the day. Entry to the national park section remains free, at 0 AUD, with only Daintree Ferry crossing fees payable at the river. That history explains the shape of the place today. There are no traffic lights north of the Daintree River and no mains grid; power comes from solar arrays and generators. The road to the cape was sealed only in 2002. Alexandra Lookout, the Marrdja Botanical Walk, the Dubuji boardwalk and Cooper Creek sit along it as short, deliberate pauses, while Mount Sorrow rises 680 metres behind Myall Beach, stacking mangrove, fan palm and lowland forest in bands legible from the shore. Guided Daintree rainforest tours from Cairns and Mossman Gorge day trips have made those bands the most-visited rainforest in Australia, which is its own kind of pressure. Every Cape Tribulation day tour from Cairns tour ends, finally, in adjacency: reef and rainforest, two ancient systems touching at one shoreline.